When the temperature drops and daylight packs up early, there’s only one sensible response: heat your booze. Geniuses in history have been doing it for centuries - partly because it tastes good, and partly because it’s a lot more streamlined than wearing three extra jumpers.
The art of mulling (infusing warm wine, cider or spirits with spices, citrus, and sugar) has roots that go all the way back to Ancient Rome. The Romans, ever the innovators in both empire-building, sandals and indulgence, heated and flavoured their wine with honey and herbs as early as the 2nd century. As the empire expanded across Europe, they took their idea far and wide of warming and spicing wine.
By the Middle Ages, mulled wine had evolved into a staple of winter hospitality. In Britain, the Victorians turned it into a seasonal institution, immortalised by Charles Dickens when Mr. Fezziwig served “a bowl of smoking bishop” in A Christmas Carol. That Dickensian punch was red wine, port, citrus, and spice — essentially the 19th-century version of “festive cheer in a cup.”
But wine doesn’t have to have all the glory. In cider-making regions like Somerset and Normandy, farmers turned their autumn apple harvests into steaming brews of mulled cider, sweetened with brown sugar and fortified with a cheeky splash of rum or Calvados. Meanwhile, in Scandinavia, glögg took things up a notch with almonds, raisins, and enough aquavit to make even Loki think things might be getting out of hand.
And then there are spirits. Whisky, rum, and brandy all take kindly to a bit of heat and spice. A hot toddy — whisky, lemon, honey, and hot water — has been prescribed as a cure for everything from the common cold to heartbreak. Mulled rum punches were once a sailor’s staple, while brandy butter’s boozy cousin, hot brandy punch, fuelled many a frosty celebration. If there’s liquid and a heat source nearby, history suggests someone, somewhere, has mulled it.
Spirited's Guide to the Best Mull
-
Use whole spices. Ground spices lose their punch over time, so using whole cloves, cinnamon sticks, nutmeg and star anise will give the depth you're after in a mull. It's also an absolute faff trying to filter out ground spice, which means it can feel like you're drinking sand the more you get to the bottom. Sand is delicious to drink while sipping your Blue Lagoon, beachside at your Montenegro resort in summertime - however in winter it's a bit of an insult to injury.
-
Add citrus peel as a garnish. Orange peel adds fragrance through its oils. It's lovely to add to the finished product, but including it as an ingredient during the mulling can create bitterness (alternatively, to make the Smoking Bishop from A Christmas Carol, you can completely ignore me and blacken whole oranges in the oven first, and then add them, port and spices together in a saucepan to heat).
-
Heat don't boil. Firstly, you’re making a drink, not a reduction. Secondly, you'll boil off the alcohol. No. Stop that. Gentle heat keeps the alcohol in and the flavours bright while also... you know... making it warm.
-
Balance the sweet. If you've chosen a base ingredient you like, you'll want to be able to taste it. The sweetness from honey, maple syrup, or sugar should complement along with the spice, but not overtake or be too cloying.
So remember folks, when things get a little cold out there, we here at Spirited say:
"To warm the cockles of your heart and make your house smell nice;
heat your booze and don't forget to add sugar and spice."
(OK no one says that, BUT THEY SHOULD.)
